On Friday March 28th, P[h]assion held their SS25 runway show, ‘Unveil’, at Bain Mathieu. Operating under McGill’s Management Undergraduate Society, P[h]assion is a fashion club whose mission for over 20 years has been to promote HIV and AIDS awareness and raise money for foundations like the ACCM (AIDS Community Care Montreal). Their most recent initiatives have been particularly grounded in this key aspect of the organization in an effort to ensure their identity remains rooted in their original objective.
If last year’s show was aimed at shattering the status quo, this year P[h]assion invites us to discover what lies beneath the rubble.
This year’s theme, ‘Unveil, ’ was a perfect segue to last year’s theme, ‘Disrupt,’ offering both continuity and contrast. If last year’s show was aimed at shattering the status quo, this year P[h]assion invites us to discover what lies beneath the rubble. On an Instagram post, Director of Communications, Lucy Kaskie, writes, “‘Unveil’ is not about perfection, but about the authenticity and the beauty of discovering yourself at your own pace.” For everyone, whether consciously or subconsciously, fashion is both an expression and a mode of exploration of one’s identity. Lucy insightfully remarks on the way this has been commodified into “hyper-specific subcultures” and examines poignant questions of taste, conformity and community. She ends her inspired statement on the theme by encouraging the reader to critically think and engage with the show, shedding the modern habit of passive consumption.
When I arrived at the event, I was briefly taken backstage in search of the aforementioned writer herself. I got a glimpse of the chaotic, vibrant, creative team that put on an enthralling show. In conversation, Lucy offered further insight into the way the fashion industry is evolving, which I later saw subtlety reflected in the show: “fashion is becoming more localized and separated, both from an industry-wide and individual consumer perspective, as consumers turn to vintage, as well as sewing, fixing and upcycling their own clothing.” She again emphasized the importance of critically engaging with fashion, both within the show and beyond, remarking that part of what differentiates P[h]assion from other fashion clubs is their commitment to creating a community and space that facilitates meaningful reflection and discussion.
Unveil featured seven designers, each inspiringly unique. Inclusivity and sustainability are part of P[h]assion’s core values, so naturally the designer selection reflected that. Beyond being representative of different origins, sexualities and gender identities, it was the variety of visions and conceptions that stood out. Charlotte Roy, Director of Designer Relations, discovered the featured vendors and designers organically through personal exploration. She suggests Chaque Mois (a boutique store on Beaubien) for discovering new, particularly local, designers; their space functions as a marketplace, with new vendors every month and events that foster a sense of community.
From that, the fashion followed, each designer taking a turn to dazzle the audience with mesmerizing designs showcased in a runway where the music, pacing, choreography, and models’ performances effectively highlighted their individual artistry.
The show began with Crystal, a representative of ACCM, making a statement about the organization and thanking P[h]assion for their support. What most struck me was a statistic she shared. A lot of us, including myself, mistakenly view AIDS as an issue of the past, particularly associating it with the 1980’s crisis. While there has been a lot of both medical and societal progress, in 2020 there was a 120% increase in AIDS cases. Giving Crystal that moment to highlight the organization’s presence and relevance was a clever opening, consistent with the event’s mission. From that, the fashion followed, each designer taking a turn to dazzle the audience with mesmerizing designs showcased in a runway where the music, pacing, choreography, and models’ performances effectively highlighted their individual artistry.
One cannot escape the shackles of identity and subjectivity. For me to highlight particular designers is merely to reveal that something about their work resonated with me, which I suppose is the whole point. While each and every designer contributed something special to the show, some left a stronger impression. Bleu Ciel is a self-taught designer who defies conventional categorization. With organic textures and futuristic sheen, their collection consisted of edgy, eccentric, elevated streetwear. Maison Prefontaine is based in Montreal. Their pieces are handcrafted in an artisanal, abstract style inspired by Western fashion. I found their collection to evoke a 70’s Californian spirit but with a modern, sexy twist. One Eye Sees, a sustainable designer whose work serves as a form of communication and commentary on the results of Western overproduction felt by developing countries that often bear the burden, provided the show with a beautiful closing act that blended art, fashion and social commentary with an absolutely stunning post-apocalyptic collection.
Fashion is not just aesthetics or business, it is an artistic medium for personal, political and cultural expression, which historically has been largely influenced and wielded by the queer community. I had the pleasure of speaking to Bailey Brown, chemsex support and outreach coordinator for the ACCM, who remarked, “It’s inspiring to see students supporting the cause and seeing it as something worthwhile.” As the only english-speaking sex health and HIV support organization in Quebec, ACCM offers support services for people who live with HIV and education about STI’s. For anyone interested in helping out, they have volunteering positions for efforts such as dinner and discussion nights, as well as several other events, parties and services which can be found on their website https://accmontreal.org/volunteer/. “You know, it’s also a great way to make a difference while also attending some pretty cool events,” Brown noted. And remember, “undetectable = untransmittable” – HIV is untransmittable with proper viral suppression.
P[h]assion is one of many student fashion clubs, but it stands out as an organization run by individuals who are keen on the social and cultural aspect of fashion, who want to encourage others to see it for the artform it is – looking beyond the trends, status symbols, and exploitation that permeate the industry and into its power for social change. Their SS25 runway show was a beautiful embodiment of everything they stand for, and I for one, am eager to see what theme they will choose for next year’s edition.
